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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.